Lot 52
Catherine Walker Lilac Crepe Gown and Embroidered Bolero

fits Franklin Mint Diana Portrait Doll


Catherine Walker's first embroidered piece for Diana was made in 1989, for a tour of the middle East. The embroidered bodice featured, as was required by protocol there, a high neck and long sleeves, along with with a huge full ballgown skirt. Walker took as inspiration for the design the rose, coming up with a floral pattern recalling an English country garden as well as the potent symbol of the English rose. By 1992, however, Diana's style had changed to one that was more sleek and sophisticated, and she asked the designer to rework the gown for the Wales' trip to Korea in November. The bodice became a bolero, paired with a slim lilac crepe column gown that showcased Diana's figure and height. It also would pair nicely with the traditional silk gowns that the Korean ladies were anticipated to be wearing.

However, that summer of 1992 was a watershed in Diana's marriage with the publication of Andrew Morton's book "Diana, Her True Story", detailing her distresses and her husband's relationship with another woman. With the upcoming tour being touted as the 'kiss and make up' trip, Diana didn't want to participate in any more pretense and refused to go . However, over the late summer holiday at Balmoral she was persuaded - Paul Burrel claims by Prince Philip, 'Royalty' magazine says the Queen, Andrew Morton credits her friend James Colthurst - to make the trip for the sake of the monarchy. Despite reports that the pair were visibly miserable the whole time, contemporary photographs show that on her solo engagements Diana was her usual smiling and professional self. In the company of her husband, however, she made her true feelings known (below left). It was also noted that she chose to wear the Spencer tiara instead of the Queen Mary one given to her by the Queen, as a sign of independence. It was clear that things could not continue as before, and discussions for a separation were started upon their return.

Diana first wore this restyled version during the Wales' tour of India in early 1992, and also later that fall to a gala celebrating the Queen's 40 years on the throne. When she auctioned 79 of her gowns for charity in 1997, this was Lot 52, described as "a formal dinner dress with embroiderd bolero jacket", and fetched $51,750. The buyer donated it to Elizabeth Taylor, who auctioned it off in 1999 to benefit the American Foundation for AIDS Research (below right.)



This recreation for the Franklin Mint vinyl People’s Princess doll consists of a lilac crepe sheath gown, with a long slit in the back, lined in white and fastening in the back with snaps. The bolero is in a floral brocade shot with gold metallic threads, featuring top stitiching at the neckline, cuffs, and waist, and is lined in China silk. Shown with the Spencer tiara from the Midnight Blue (aka 'Travolta') gown, and earrings from the Black Sequinned Gown. Shoes by S 'n E.

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